It feels good coming home, but it sure makes for a long day. We got up before 4am Munich time (8 hours ahead of San Francisco) and landed about 1pm PDT. Sort of like having a 32 hour day. The two most challenging parts, up til arrival (not including getting out of bed) were finding ways to spend our last euros (I have 0.57 left -- less than $1) and managing to sit on the plane for 10+ hours. It was the best kind of long flight: uneventful and on time. Even passport control and customs were fast.
Of course, the bigger challenges are re-integrating into our real life, starting with going through 6 weeks of mail, unpacking and putting it all away, fixing things that went kafluey while we were gone (like our fancy 'garage' tarp and our satellite receiver), and restocking the kitchen so I can cook again.
We had a blast! We didn't do a lot in depth anywhere, except maybe Vienna, but got a lovely taste of nine countries we had not seen before and got to know more about the three we had been in. Driving fast in Germany is such a hoot. Now going 65 seems like a snail's pace. The old car feels huge and slow, too.
On the plus side, it's good to be back where the toilet paper is soft, where a double bed means one big bed, not two twins smashed together, the bed comes with one blanket big enough for the whole bed instead of two little ones that never quite do the job, and the rooms aren't overheated.
Our next 'little' trip will be a jaunt to the Chicago area for Thanksgiving, but we're still debating our next big trip. Australia? African Safari? Morocco? Bali? So many intriguing choices!!
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
Oct. 29 -- In Munich, Prepping to Go Home
We had a brief English/German conversation with our Chinese hotel host this morning. Based on his pronunciation of German and English, I didn't think he was China-born, but I was wrong. He grew up in Beijing and went to college in Berlin (presumably East Berlin based on his apparent age) and went to work there. After his corporate life, he opened the hotel and a restaurant on the bottom floor (where we had breakfast) but he had to close the restaurant this year when there just weren't enough customers. He had visited the US for six months a long time ago and traveled all over, including San Francisco and our Chinatown. I told him I was a tour guide there.
Then we headed to our hotel in Munich, about 150 miles away. We arrived before noon, and were able to check in and unload the car in preparation for giving it back to BMW. The front desk clerk gave us a lunch recommendation about 10K away and we had a pleasant drive through a couple small burgs on our way there. The recommended place was closed and we scouted out the choices and ended up at a buffet with four options, all listed in German, none of which were in my dictionaries, and a waitress who spoke no English. I thought I was getting noodles based on the work "Knodel", but noodles are nudeln and I got a baseball-sized dumpling instead. Jim got kind of a pork hamburger and mashed potatoes, and I got about an 8-10 ounce slab of roast pork. The shop also had pastries and we picked up a couple for dessert to go with our last salami/ham/cheese sandwich for dinner. I am hoping it will be the last sandwich of that type for a while - it's been easy and often has been breakfast, but I've had about six month's worth in the last 6 weeks.
Then it was off to replace the winter tires (which we never needed, but it was the law) with our real tires, wash the car, and turn it back in. Back at the hotel, we are working on re-packing to try to eliminate one bag despite having bought stuff. So far, so good. We'll see what tomorrow brings when dirty clothes and toiletries have to go somewhere!
Pretty church on the way to lunch |
Last moments with our car.... |
Then it was off to replace the winter tires (which we never needed, but it was the law) with our real tires, wash the car, and turn it back in. Back at the hotel, we are working on re-packing to try to eliminate one bag despite having bought stuff. So far, so good. We'll see what tomorrow brings when dirty clothes and toiletries have to go somewhere!
The view from our hotel window -- near the airport, under the flight path, but quiet with the window closed. |
Monday, October 28, 2013
Oct. 28 – Second Travel Day to Munich: Stuttgart
When we went to breakfast in our minimalist hotel this
morning, we noticed the old woodwork in the dining room. There was also a lot
of stained glass in the public areas, so we asked at the front desk if this was
an old building. I was thinking a couple hundred years old, but the
receptionist said it was built in the 1200 or 1300s and functioned initially as
a brewery. Before it became today’s hotel, it had also been a bordello. Quite a
transition: brewery to bordello to college-dorm style hotel!
Road to Heidelberg Castle |
We headed south towards Stuttgart in a light rain, but soon
drove out of it. It was very windy however, so when Jim got the car up to 125,
he decided it took too much effort to control it in the wind. I added the
Heidelberg Castle to our route since the Streckenbach ancestors came from
Heidelberg and I figured a drive into the old town might be fun. Liesel’s
directions were a challenge again, we missed a turn and drove up to the castle
the back way on roads that were a lot like those at home: Steep, twisty, and
narrow. The bad part came when she directed us to turn into a parking area that
she also announced was restricted. Oh yippee! It was for buses only, and so we
parked along the street (probably illegally) and I hiked back towards the
castle to take a few photos while Jim guarded the car. Back in the 80’s, Kristen
and I had come here and I distinctly remember having to hike all the way up, so
at least back then, the parking lot was down below. On our way out of town, we
stopped at a little park for our packed lunch and made it to Stuttgart before 2pm.
Heidelberg Castle -- mostly missing |
Old town Heidelberg and the Neckar River |
Modern Heidelberg in the distance |
After lunch, I drove and eased the car up to 105 before I
had to slow down for yet another construction project. It is hard to believe
how many little projects the Germans have in progress on their fast roads. I
also noticed a couple signs that said “Take your time” and “Don’t drive so
fast” and wondered if maybe the predilection for speeds well over 100 is
causing problems (though to be fair, we have only see one accident in Germany).
Maybe all the spread out little construction projects where you have to slow to
50 or even 38 mph is a subtle way of getting them used to slower speeds. We only
have one more day to try driving fast, and I was pleased to see that 105 was
not a strain for me. I think it helps that we have been driving over 90
regularly, unlike 12 years ago, when we drove only a bit in Germany and hadn’t
really gotten a chance to adapt to 90 as a starting point. Sad to say, 75 and
even 80 now feel very poky.
Cruise ship on the Neckar River in Stuttgart |
Tonight we have another minimalist hotel, run by a Chinese
gentleman and a young woman who may be his daughter. Neither of them speak a
lot of English and in a week away from Germany, my German has declined from
unexceptional to worse than that. When I asked for help locating a self-service
laundry, our host volunteered to do it on site and have it ready in the
morning. Then we tried to ask where there was a bank to cash in some dollars
and resolve our ‘down to our last 20 euros’ problem. He gave us directions to
walk about 10 minutes away from the downtown, and when we were totally
unsuccessful with that plan, we decided to hike into downtown instead, about
1.5 to 2 miles away. I thought we could take Liesel and make her tell us where
there are banks AND give directions (she finds gas stations on the fly quite
well) but Jim pointed out that we had a primo neighborhood parking spot and it
was unlikely it would still be available when we returned.
Stuttgart fountain. We think the city may be heated by hot water from a central source and this is a vent. There were several on little hills,mostly inactive. |
Mercedes Tower at the Main Train Station. This is a major center for both Mercedes and Porsche. |
Sunday, October 27, 2013
Oct. 27 -- Start the Drive to Munich: Cologne
When I took German classes in college, one thing I learned about was the "Kolner Dom" -- the Cologne Cathedral, the largest in Europe. When we started to plan where we would drive during our two weeks with our new car, and decided to head north in October instead of south (which would have meant Alps and snow), trying to fit in the Kolner Dom (the real spelling uses an umlaut on the o in Koln) was on my list of to-dos.
But first things first. We had purchased a double museum ticket yesterday and learned about chocolate, and today we had to use the french fry part of the ticket. The museum format was quite similar to the Choco-Story Museum -- lots of plaques in 3 languages, a movie, historical information and samples of 20th century containers. I did learn a few things: the original potatoes in Peru were very small -- ranging in size from peas to crab apples -- and were probably investigated by the natives when they saw their domesticated llamas and alpacas digging for them. Fast forward a couple centuries or more and the Spanish connection to/rule of Belgium that gave them early access to chocolate also gave them potatoes. In theory, some Belgium person did the first French fry which got called that because an American in WWI (or was it WWII?) got some from a French-speaking Belgian and was too hungry to notice that he was not talking to a Frenchman. So when Congress castigated French Fries several years ago, they were castigating the wrong people/rejecting the wrong food. But then who would intentionally refuse to eat hollandaise or Bearnaise sauce. I mean, really.
Our next mission was to finalize our chocolate decisions AND to buy the day's ration of heavenly eclairs. The eclair shop was nearby -- and very busy -- but we had to retrace our steps to re-locate the chocolate shop. Once there, we verified they took credit cards, and then starting working toward their minimum credit purchase. Let's just say this was not that difficult. Loaded up with chocolates and eclairs, we departed Brugge on our way to Koln (Cologne). As we headed east, the countryside gradually developed hills, but still the freeways were passing through largely pastoral scenery -- lots of cows, horses, and sheep.
I got a really cheap rate at a 'basic' but 3-star Koln hotel near the Kolner Dom, and started to worry that maybe I had booked in the equivalent of San Francisco's Tenderloin -- close to downtown but terminally seedy. It didn't look TOO bad, except for the Gay Sex Center next door. The interior looks really old and interesting with lots of stained glass, but I was prepared to cancel and head back to the freeway to locate an alternative. We had to park on the street when we checked in and Jim went back to get the luggage. Based on the folks he saw on the street, he was totally okay with it, so we paid and headed to our room in one of the smallest elevators I've seen. The back wall is mirrored and I about busted my nose on the mirror before I clued in on how small it was: just barely room for the bags and us, rated for 3 people or 660 lbs -- and all three would be close personal friends by the top. We were lucky to be no higher than floor 3 -- there were 2 more floors above, but the elevator stops at 3.
The next challenge was finding the public overnight parking lot. The hotel had a map and we had Liesel, so we set off. We have found a couple situations where Liesel appears to get confused and tell you to turn in 200 yards when she really means RIGHT NOW or vice versa. Looking at the map, I contradicted Liesel's instructions and goofed big time. We finally found our way in, but it was more of an adventure than anticipated. At the hotel, we washed a couple shirts for tomorrow (still haven't found a laundromat that's actually open) and then headed out to find the Dom and dinner. The cathedral is totally massive. The travel guide I have says that 20,000 people a day visit, and based on the number there this afternoon, I think they're right. We are basically in the middle of a major tourist area.
Finding dinner was another challenge: one restaurant with a very interesting menu didn't take credit cards. We found a Subway, Maggiano's, and a Chicago Steakhouse. Lots of places were offering local specialities: black pudding and potatoes, sauerbraten, or schnitzel --- no no no! We were close to choosing Italian (the guide book called Koln the 'northernmost Italian city') but found something German that was interesting and didn't involve pudding or schnitzel or sauerbraten. Yay!
But first things first. We had purchased a double museum ticket yesterday and learned about chocolate, and today we had to use the french fry part of the ticket. The museum format was quite similar to the Choco-Story Museum -- lots of plaques in 3 languages, a movie, historical information and samples of 20th century containers. I did learn a few things: the original potatoes in Peru were very small -- ranging in size from peas to crab apples -- and were probably investigated by the natives when they saw their domesticated llamas and alpacas digging for them. Fast forward a couple centuries or more and the Spanish connection to/rule of Belgium that gave them early access to chocolate also gave them potatoes. In theory, some Belgium person did the first French fry which got called that because an American in WWI (or was it WWII?) got some from a French-speaking Belgian and was too hungry to notice that he was not talking to a Frenchman. So when Congress castigated French Fries several years ago, they were castigating the wrong people/rejecting the wrong food. But then who would intentionally refuse to eat hollandaise or Bearnaise sauce. I mean, really.
Our next mission was to finalize our chocolate decisions AND to buy the day's ration of heavenly eclairs. The eclair shop was nearby -- and very busy -- but we had to retrace our steps to re-locate the chocolate shop. Once there, we verified they took credit cards, and then starting working toward their minimum credit purchase. Let's just say this was not that difficult. Loaded up with chocolates and eclairs, we departed Brugge on our way to Koln (Cologne). As we headed east, the countryside gradually developed hills, but still the freeways were passing through largely pastoral scenery -- lots of cows, horses, and sheep.
I got a really cheap rate at a 'basic' but 3-star Koln hotel near the Kolner Dom, and started to worry that maybe I had booked in the equivalent of San Francisco's Tenderloin -- close to downtown but terminally seedy. It didn't look TOO bad, except for the Gay Sex Center next door. The interior looks really old and interesting with lots of stained glass, but I was prepared to cancel and head back to the freeway to locate an alternative. We had to park on the street when we checked in and Jim went back to get the luggage. Based on the folks he saw on the street, he was totally okay with it, so we paid and headed to our room in one of the smallest elevators I've seen. The back wall is mirrored and I about busted my nose on the mirror before I clued in on how small it was: just barely room for the bags and us, rated for 3 people or 660 lbs -- and all three would be close personal friends by the top. We were lucky to be no higher than floor 3 -- there were 2 more floors above, but the elevator stops at 3.
Cologne Catheral (Kolner Dom) front |
Cathedral side view |
Old City Hall (Rathaus) Tower |
Finding dinner was another challenge: one restaurant with a very interesting menu didn't take credit cards. We found a Subway, Maggiano's, and a Chicago Steakhouse. Lots of places were offering local specialities: black pudding and potatoes, sauerbraten, or schnitzel --- no no no! We were close to choosing Italian (the guide book called Koln the 'northernmost Italian city') but found something German that was interesting and didn't involve pudding or schnitzel or sauerbraten. Yay!
The Rhine as sunset approached |
Oct. 26 -- Drive to Belgium, Explore Brugge
Today we taught Liesel a new trick -- two destinations at once! I wanted to stay away from the big highways she would prefer and decided to tell her we were going to Den Haag (The Hague) first, then to Brugge -- worked like a charm except for a spot where what I thought was a bridge with a big water view turned out to be a LONG tunnel with no view what so ever.
The scenery throughout the drive was much like we've seen before -- very flat, pastoral, wide spread farms, still very green, but most of the corn has been harvested. I was surprised that there were so many 4-lane highways though Holland and Belgium too, although I began to appreciate them when we got to the Belgian version of a country road: a single wide-ish lane for two way traffic. Sort of like home without the hills and curves, but still scary when a full-sized bus came the other way. Luckily, there were no deep gullies next to the road, just more flat land with trees.
Brugge (also spelled Bruges -- the French version, not favored here) is a beautiful old town that even on an October Saturday was filled to the gills with other tourists. There were an astounding number of places to buy genuine Belgian chocolate or to get a Belgian waffle. The hotel staff was very helpful in providing a walking route through the best parts of the old town, much of which was built in the 1300s. The weather, despite forecasts to the contrary, was glorious and sunny with barely a need for a light jacket. We set off with a goal of buying chocolate and exploring the town. After two chocolate stops, we started to get the idea that this would be overwhelming. We went into at least a dozen shops with a variety of price ranges from ridiculously expensive to almost reasonable, places that made all their own chocolate on site to places that were like chocolate supermarkets for other people's chocolates. We saw chocolates in all kinds of shapes --- even high-heeled shoes!
We found a chocolate museum and bought a dual ticket for that and for the french fry museum (really!) at a discount for being seniors. The Choco-Story Museum told how chocolate evolved from an unsweetened drink of the Central Americans to the major industry that it is today. Belgium got into chocolate early because it was controlled by Spain about the time that the Spanish brought chocolate back from America, and their design strategy was quality, not cost.
From there, we proceeded on our map tour, and saw a pastry shop near one of the old buildings we were supposed to find. They had skinny little eclairs and we decided to see how they compared to the eclairs from heaven that we had found in the Marais in Paris 12 years ago. They were not quite as good, but the best we have had since Paris, and tomorrow we'll go back for seconds.
In our wandering around, across canals with boats and birds and between beautiful old buildings, we encountered an unusual musician. He was creating lovely bell-toned music on what looked like upside down woks with several big dimples in them. We arrived just as he was finishing one lovely song, and I hung around a bit hoping he would play again so that I could make a short movie of the music. An organ grinder started playing nearby, and when he did start up again, I didn't get a chance to film much because he saw me and said something that didn't sound friendly.
By the time we finished the walking route, it was getting late, so we went back to the hotel to relax a bit before setting out for dinner. We got advice about dining from the hotel staff (there are TONS of places to go, but we really didn't want to just fall into one of the touristy places). When we got there, we found it didn't take credit cards and it looked like dinner would cost more than we had left in euros. Nearby, we found two more options and settled on the one that did not specialize in oysters. We each chose a prix fixe menu. Mine started with a soup that looked and sort of tasted like pea soup. I am a big fan of peas but have never liked pea soup. I think it is the texture and the bacon that put me off. This was lighter, and actually tasty and I concluded that it must have broccoli in it too. The staff concurred -- a pea/broccoli combination that was easily the best pea soup I've ever tried. Dessert was a tiny dark chocolate mousse -- enough chocolate kick to take care of me for a couple days, I think. Unfortunately, although they did take credit cards, they could only handle the European kind with a chip, which meant it was lucky we had enough euros to cover, but just barely. We don't want to buy a lot more with the trip coming to an end, and won't be able to go to a bank til Monday (its Saturday now) and don't want to take the ATM hit of fees for a $100 withdrawal. Let's hope we can make our last 25 euros last til Monday!
After that, it was back the hotel. Tonight is the end of daylight savings time in Europe. I set my travel alarm back an hour, but left my watch and phone alone, figuring the results in the morning might help me determine what time it really is.
The scenery throughout the drive was much like we've seen before -- very flat, pastoral, wide spread farms, still very green, but most of the corn has been harvested. I was surprised that there were so many 4-lane highways though Holland and Belgium too, although I began to appreciate them when we got to the Belgian version of a country road: a single wide-ish lane for two way traffic. Sort of like home without the hills and curves, but still scary when a full-sized bus came the other way. Luckily, there were no deep gullies next to the road, just more flat land with trees.
Belfry in Markt Square |
Shoes of Chocolate -- full-sized! |
Brugge Alley |
We found a chocolate museum and bought a dual ticket for that and for the french fry museum (really!) at a discount for being seniors. The Choco-Story Museum told how chocolate evolved from an unsweetened drink of the Central Americans to the major industry that it is today. Belgium got into chocolate early because it was controlled by Spain about the time that the Spanish brought chocolate back from America, and their design strategy was quality, not cost.
Burg square church |
Wok musician |
By the time we finished the walking route, it was getting late, so we went back to the hotel to relax a bit before setting out for dinner. We got advice about dining from the hotel staff (there are TONS of places to go, but we really didn't want to just fall into one of the touristy places). When we got there, we found it didn't take credit cards and it looked like dinner would cost more than we had left in euros. Nearby, we found two more options and settled on the one that did not specialize in oysters. We each chose a prix fixe menu. Mine started with a soup that looked and sort of tasted like pea soup. I am a big fan of peas but have never liked pea soup. I think it is the texture and the bacon that put me off. This was lighter, and actually tasty and I concluded that it must have broccoli in it too. The staff concurred -- a pea/broccoli combination that was easily the best pea soup I've ever tried. Dessert was a tiny dark chocolate mousse -- enough chocolate kick to take care of me for a couple days, I think. Unfortunately, although they did take credit cards, they could only handle the European kind with a chip, which meant it was lucky we had enough euros to cover, but just barely. We don't want to buy a lot more with the trip coming to an end, and won't be able to go to a bank til Monday (its Saturday now) and don't want to take the ATM hit of fees for a $100 withdrawal. Let's hope we can make our last 25 euros last til Monday!
After that, it was back the hotel. Tonight is the end of daylight savings time in Europe. I set my travel alarm back an hour, but left my watch and phone alone, figuring the results in the morning might help me determine what time it really is.
Friday, October 25, 2013
Oct 25 -- Explore Amsterdam a Second Day
Anne Frank House outside no photos allowed inside |
By 8:30 there were already 30-40 people ahead of us. Jim is not good at lines, and we were lucky that a charming local woman and her 10-year old son were right behind us and we somehow got engaged in conversation. We learned that all the museum traffic we saw yesterday was due to a school holiday, so people are taking their kids everywhere. The house itself was larger than I imagined from reading the book and on 2 primary levels plus an attic. Of course, I haven't read the book in a few years, but being inside with the blackout windows and imagining me or worse, kids, cooped up here for a couple years was quite a moving experience. After we went thru the hiding place, we exiting into an area that presented real life current moral questions and gave the viewers a chance to vote and then displayed the results. One situation was about headscarves being banned from public schools because they are religious symbols and it presented a very even discussion of the reasons for and against before asking for a vote. The second was on the use of neo-Nazi symbolism and whether, in a democracy, it was okay for it to be banned. Very thought provoking!
Brunch! |
Ould Kerk |
Chinatown! |
Den Waag -- was part of old fortifications |
Amsterdam houseboats -- puts Sausalito to shame |
We wandered by the new market on the way to one of the fanciest homes in the area, built in the 1660s. Most homes are three windows wide, and some are only two. This one had seven windows across the front with more space between than usual, so probably 3 normal-sized lots. It's now a business place. A lot of these old homes are very tilty -- some lean forward across the street, others lean left or right or some combination. I wonder what it it like to live in a place with no really flat floors!
Leaning homes |
More leaning homes |
Homes leaning over the street |
First of the seven cute bridges |
One of many Van Goghs at the museum |
By the time we were done, however, we were really done. Our original plan with the brunch was to have a late lunch/early supper, and after the museum, we set out toward another area of the city in search of restaurants. Neither of us was dying of hunger, and we came across a nearby cafe with a reasonably priced onion soup that was also close to the tram, but their kitchen was closing in 5 minutes, and we saw our tram arriving, so we caught it and came back to the hotel instead. Dinner tonight will be some of the snacks we have been accumulating.
Oct. 24 - Discover Amsterdam
Farm along the main road to Amsterdam |
Rijksmuseum |
Vermeer Painting |
Van Gogh Painting |
Homes along a canal |
Narrow houses on the canals |
A REALLY tiny car -- smaller than a smartcar |
Bird near our hotel -- I was about 10 ft away and he was patient, posing while I prepped my camera. |
Thursday, October 24, 2013
Oct 23 -- Drive Halfway to Amsterdam
These are the windblown trees we saw before, but this photo illustrates the wind effect better. |
At my daughter's urging, we settled on a more German name for our guidance system, and are trying out "Liesel" instead of Alice, even tho she doesn't speak with a German accent. We'll see how it goes -- I keep thinking of her as Alice, so the new name may not stick.
Either the Danish or Schleswig-Holstein countryside -- FLAT! |
Interesting building on the way to the hotel |
Store in Harpstedt called Arizona, selling southwest US goodies |
The old windmill in Harpstedt |
One of several lovely stained glass displays in a Harpstedt church |
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