9/19 - Learn More About Maori Culture

Today, we visited a couple of Maori sites to learn more about their lives and culture. 

Our first stop was a Marae (meeting place) where we got an introduction to the area we were visiting. It became the largest fir tree plantation in the Southern Hemisphere because the volcanic impact on the soil created an ideal environment for the trees. Species that typically take 70 years to reach maturity in normal circumstances are fully ready to harvest here in 25-28 years. However, problems arose because of how the British Government (The Crown) approached the question of land ownership. Their contention apparently was since the Maori had no paper documentation that they owned the land, it could be claimed and documented by anyone else. This is a ridiculous but typical argument by interlopers when they encounter cultures who don't see land as something to 'own' but as something that is shared by all. The Maori finally won the right to the land, but The Crown owns the trees and the revenue from leasing the land to timber companies, which amounts to millions (if not billions over the years) of dollars.

After our initial introduction, we moved to the Marae where there is a meeting house and went through a welcoming ritual. The women were at the front of the group, followed by the men. One woman opened the ritual by calling out to women by the meeting room and there was a series of song exchanges before we started moving forward. When we reached a area with chairs set up, the men were seated in the front (to protect us) and the women in back.Then an older Maori man began a long oration in Maori, and finally we moved into the meeting room (after removing our shoes) with the men in front again and listened to the gentlemen tell us more about the Maori experience and culture. 

 The traditional Maori greeting called hongi.
This action of touching heads and noses recalls
the actions of the gods breathing life into
the first woman and changes you from a
stranger to one of the people of the land.

 

Interestingly, when someone dies, their body is prepared with water from the river (in the old days, they would be washed IN the river, but this is no longer considered acceptable) and then transferred to a special mat in the meeting room through a window, as only the living use doors. After three days of visitation, the body is buried. Photos of the departed are hung on the walls. The people told us that the call to join brings in not only the living but also the departed spirits, so there is a real sense of the departed always being there too.

Inside the Marae. Photos are of the deceased

Next we put our shoes back on and moved to a room with snacks and tea or coffee for general conversation. When that was done, we took the bus to an area by a river where we were treated to a hangi: a meal cooked on hot rocks in the ground. We had an opportunity to visit some of the animals there too. The deer was quite stand-offish, but the horse, two very furry pigs, and a jealous goat were glad  to see us. Sandy especially liked the bigger furry pig and gave her(?) quite the backrub. 

 

We also had time to enjoy the view of the black swans on the river. I had managed to misplace my long range camera at the Kiwi Exhibit, so my photos for the day were limited to  what  I could capture my phone. Fortunately, I was re-united with my camera back at the hotel.

 

Then it was time to uncover the hangi pit, which was covered with a lot of sand and several layers of cloth and a squarish metal top. The vegetables and meat were in three tiers over the hot rocks. Lunch consisted of roast pork, roast chicken, potatoes, kumara (a special New Zealand variety of sweet potato), stuffing, coleslaw, and salad. We were also served fry bread at the table. It was all quite tasty and filling. Sandy and I agreed that dinner was probably not going to be necessary.

 

 

 

Before we left, our guide performed a haka (without the tongue display - apparently that's for men only) and we learned more about the group that provided the tour. They support the local population in a number of ways. They can apply each year for awards in four categories. Last year, they applied for all 4 and were accepted to compete in three and won one. 

 

Text of Haka in Maori

Literal and Intended Meanings

 

Then it was time for the drive home and I dozed a bit -- still trying to catch up after being an hour or two shorter on  sleep than normal, despite having one of my best sleeps today. I collected my camera and Sandy headed off for a thermal pool experience while I am in catch-up mode on the blog and spending. Her thermal pool experience involved dips in alternating and increasingly intense warm and cold pools. I am SO glad I skipped it.