9/24 - Explore Dunedin

Our first visit was to Larnach Castle, built in 1871 by William Larnach, a weatlthy merchant and later a politician. It is on the Otego Peninsula on the southeast portion of the South Island. It is a ways outside of Dunedin and overlooks the city and the harbor. When you look at the ocean from here, the next continent you encounter is southernmost South America.

It was built in 3 years, but another 12 was spent on the elaborate and detailed decorations throughout the home. It sits on 35 acres, much of which is finely landscaped. Larnach had 3 wives (2 of them died at age 38, but the third one survived him and may have had an affair with one of his sons. He committed suicide in 1898 and she decamped to England for 10 months before returning, leading some to think the theoretical hanky panky had a result that took a while to dispatch.) Extended legal battles between his many children and his third wife ensued, and were finally settled in 1906, when the children won. They promptly set about to sell everything they could.

The building went through several owners and fell into serious disrepair. It was scheduled to be purchased for the land value and razed when Barry and Margaret Barker managed to acquire it instead in 1967 with the idea of a total restoration. They were even successful at locating and buying some of the original furniture in the house. It is now a tourist attraction that also has accommodations for rent in the stables.

We started in the ballroom, which is currently used as a cafe, then proceeded to the enclosed veranda. The veranda was originally open to the elements, but after living through their first winter, they decided to enclose it to help keep the house warmer. We visited all the rooms on all 3 floors and then took a VERY narrow circular staircase to the tower at the top of the building.

The enclosed veranda

Larnach called this very elaborate edifice "the camp"

Several views of the surrounding area from the tower

The really TIGHT stairs to the tower

Sometimes, the planned projects were just too difficult to accomplish. There was a plan for carved stone bathtubs in the home, but they were so heavy only one made it inside. Another is a huge planter in the garden.

We also walked through the gardens and I found a lovely rock wall overlooking the sea and left one of my Jim marbles there, tucked away to not be visible after I took the photo.

These are examples from the garden and exterior of the home.

The veranda enclosure shown here is probably prettier
than the original open veranda.

Back at the hotel, we had a brief break before a walking tour of downtown Dinedin, called the Octagon, based on its shape. There was a gold rush here that started in 1861 and Dinedin experienced the kind of explosive growth and influx of wealth that San Francisco had in 1849. Our hotel, the Distinction, was the post office before being converted to a hotel after being empty for some time in the 1990s. It is located in the Heritage area where most of the buildings retain their original facades. As you approach the Octogon, the architecture is generally more modern.

There are several scattered penguin bronzes scattered in a small park. further on, we visited the railway station and the group went on to see the Settler's Museum and Chinese Gardens, while Sandy and I broke off to visit a rock  shop she had been looking for. 

We returned to the hotel for lunch where we asked to see the vaults. The areas where the most valuable goods were kept for transfer are in a hallway behind the main restaurant and have been transformed into VERY private dining rooms. I assume the vault door is closed during the meal, but I think I would find it too claustrophobic to enjoy, even though I think it's and interesting concept.

After lunch, we completely repacked for our trip tomorrow: we will be sailing overnight on Milford Sound and have been advised to pack only what we need in a backpack as our big suitcase and smaller carry on will wait for us on the bus.