4/24: Transfer to Reggio Calabrese, Walk in Scilla

 The good news about the transfer was that it was changed due to weather, so we left the hotel at 6:20 am instead of 5:50. Somehow the extra 30 minutes seemed more civilized. We also got the best breakfast box to go that I have ever had on one of these trips (meaning I enjoyed almost everything in it). Instead of a direct ferry to Reggio Calabrese (on the toe of Italy), due to sketchy seas, we boated back to Sicily, bussed to Messina, and took the bus on a ferry across the 2 mile strait. We actually kept to our original schedule plus 30 minutes.

We drove to Scilla --Scylla in Greek-- (our guide pronounces it "Sheila" because a C before most letters in Italian is a CH) where we had an enjoyable walk along the waterfront to learn about the legend and the city. The Scilla story comes from the Odyssey. Apparently a shy guy named Glaucus had his eye on a beauty named Scilla, so he went to the local siren named Circe to get help to woo Scilla. Circe was sweet on Glaucus, so she instead she poisoned the water where Scilla bathed, making her grotesque -- she got the lower body of a snake and 6 dog forms at her waist. When sailors got shipwrecked near the cave where she lived, they said they heard dogs barking. 

Some of the buildings along the narrow Via Annunziata
were more modern than others. This was more original
condition and built with both stones and ceramic tiles
laid flat.

The base of the rock with the castle was Scilla's cave.

Some call Scilla the Venice of the South because of the
buildings that are at or below the water line.

Fishing is very common here and many of the waterfront
homes had space for boat storage.

Unlike the Aeolian Islands, where water
is scarce, Calabria is the most water
rich part of the south. We passed several
public fountains like this, which are quite
old. Some still have rings to let users
tie up their horse or donkey while they
load up.

The mask over the door is supposed to scare
any evil spirits away.

Typical gap for boat storage between
homes.

You might recognize Bergomot as a component of many perfumes or Earl Grey Tea. We got to try it both straight and sweetened. This brand is 20% bergomot juice and the first two ingredients are water and sugar. They definitely helped. The 100% bergomot juice was awful, even when water was added. A spoonful of sugar would definitely have helped it go down. I would drink the product above. It has a lemon/orange flavor with a hint of the perfume.
 

Above and below: 2 of the rocks that may have caused
wrecks. The tops were barely above the surface and
wave action concealed them pretty well.

The Calabrese cliffs dive straight into the sea in many
areas reducing the chances of finding a nice beach.

This is a big swordfishing boat. A lookout rides the crow's
nest and the harpoonist has a long walk from the front of
the boat. We were told swordfish mate for life, so the
harpoonist aims for the big one (female) and the male
follows until he too is harpooned.

After we passed the rocks, we walked toward the main beach where a lot of temporary construction is going on to prepare for the tourist season. The city sells concessions that allow business people to set up beach services that are taken apart in the fall. 

This is the beach where summer is being prepared

It is NOT a sandy beach!

Can you guess what is behind this sign???

 Annunziata suggested a visit to a luthier who has a shop in the area that was really interesting.

Oliver's father was a furniture maker and so Oliver made
all the cabinets you see. He both makes and repairs
stringed instruments. He likes rock music and the
electric guitar shapes below are ones he has made,

This arched guitar has no inside struts
because the arch provides the stability.
Much of his work is for churches who
don't want low tones because they are
for the devil. So the guitars are small
and uniquely strung: he uses 5 pairs
of matched strings. The lowest is in
center and the highest are on the outer
edge with medium in between. All
5 sets are tuned to different notes.

This is an old style Calabrese Lyra.
Originally made from a single piece
of wood. There are three strings and
no frets or fretboard. Tones are changed
by pushing a fingernail against the
bottom string. Apparently the others
aren't played. A horsehair bow is
used to play it.

Our host played 3 of his instruments: the arched 'soprano' guitar, the lyra, and a 2 string Albanian Chief de Lea (spelled by how it sounded). I am trying to upload the guitar sample - it's about 20 seconds long. If this works, I'll add 2 more.