Thursday, October 2, 2014

9/28 -- Exploring Tineghir

I got waylaid by a nasty virus this morning that totally sapped my strength, so Jim set out to see the sights and report back. His camera battery died after 4 photos and I had the spare in the room, so rocky morning photos are compliments of Mike.

As they started out, they saw the women gathered for laundry in the river near our hotel. In the valley on the way to the Todra Gorge, there were old buildings and  the valley was very lush, heavily farmed

They drove into the gorge part way and walked another 30 minutes into it. At the very end were hotels that were mostly restaurants, used for sleeping primarily by trekkers. They went to the spring that was the source of the river and noted how clean and clear the water was.

Kasbah at the entrance to Todra Gorge

Mike on the bridge at the head of the river. The tiny
spring is to the left.

Hay truck that got stuck in the gorge. Note the loading
technique. We have seen several even more heavily loaded
with tarps to hold the overhanging front and sides on.


The road through the gorge.
On the way back out, they picked up a Berber guide and stopped at an oasis near the laundry area. The guide walked them through the village's oasis and explained how water was allocated They walked the dikes and several times, had to give way to heavily laden donkeys, sort of like trying to pass on some of Marin's narrow roads. It is harvest season for dates and everything else.

Then they came back to the Tineghir souk for a break and visited a dive cafe there. It was right next to a butcher shop, so they watched stuff get cut up then bought food for tonight's meal. After a short stop at the hotel to drop off the food, Jim picked up the camera battery, and they went to lunch at home of guide's brother.  His daughter-in-law made tagine with beef and quince, and they looked at the well, sheep, and goats. After the meal, everyone but Jim donned local clothing (nothing big enough for him) and posed with family members. Their host was a retired welder. One  of his son's a chef in Moscow at a Moroccan restaurant, two are construction workers in Spain, and his daughter is here with a cute baby, whom he showed of. Their English was very limited, but Jim used his broken French to facilitate and he said it was the best home-cooked meal for both food and interaction. Dessert was an interesting dish that looked like mini spaghetti with sugar and ground up peanuts.
The hosts with Sheryl and Mike


Mary with one host

Proud grandfather with Jasmine

They came back to the hotel for a bit before heading out to a woman who does henna tattoos. I was hoping to feel better by then, but no such luck. The artist is divorced and helps support herself with tattooing, and OAT brings people there to help out.



Dinner was served in a Berber tent outside the hotel, using the food they purchased earlier. They had   turkey kabab with pomme frites and stone oven flat bread sort of like naan with charred edges. Jim brought me one of the breads, and it was probably the best bread I have had here, and most of it is pretty good.
Dinner tent





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